FLEAS - Human vs a 2D blood sucker! 

Thank you IGCWA member Celine, Rocket, Bowie and their feline friends for the below information and being the test dummies!




After surviving for 15 years without flea problems even with living in two country towns, we battled fleas twice in the past two years. 

The first time was a real shock to us when I first spotted those pesky two dimensional (2-D) blood sucking parasites on Rocket’s pink belly. My husband proceeded to tell me that I was being paranoid and it was JUST an insect! 

Later that night when all the shops were shut, we found more 2-D ‘insects’ on the cats (Carrie, 18 and Cabbage, 16) and Rocket and Bowie... So it began! We washed and washed, vacuumed and vacuumed, bathed and bathed, combed and combed all the animals. By the time we were done, it was nearly 2am in the morning. 

The next morning, we discovered more fleas in our front garden and backyard with all our animals looking unimpressed while sunning themselves on the prime breeding spots for fleas! Sandy soil in the front garden and mulch in the backyard. Fleas also love overgrown lawn, garden stones as they provide dark and moist conditions for them to thrive. They can dive and hide in the dark spots away from the sun and jump on warm hosts who are oblivious to being sucked at like a kid with a juice box. 


So we consulted Google (as you do!) on fleas lifecycle, likes and dislikes, breeding grounds...etc and natural deterrents for them. 


We found - 
Borax: a natural flea deterrent, one of its uses is as a laundry softener. It can be found in the laundry aisle of Coles, Woolies or Bunnings. 

We use it to wash all the bedding, blankets and clothes for humans and fur kids. 

Diatomaceous earth: another natural flea deterrent to be used in the garden to cover up breeding grounds. Diatomaceous Earth (often referred to as "DE") is an off white talc-like powder that is the fossilized remains of marine phytoplankton. It works by compromising fleas’ waxy coating so that their innards turn into teeny tiny bug jerky. (Source: https://richsoil.com/diatomaceous-earth.jsp) First we flooded the breeding grounds at night as the fleas were more likely to be on the surface. The next day when the breeding grounds were dry, we spread diatomaceous earth to cover the area. I only had to do this once. There’s a place in Midvale that sells it - http://www.greenlifesoil.com.au/minerals/diatomaceous-earth-15kg 

Steam mopping: As flea eggs can stay dormant for years and then hatch under the right environment, the carpets and floor rugs could have fleas eggs waiting for the right moment to hatch. We found steam mopping works a treat as the heat kills the eggs. 

Flea bombs: After steam mopping, we also flea bombed the entire house and man, we did find a number of dead fleas in places. We also changed all our bedding into light colour to allow better detection. But of course, you know when a flea bit you, cos it itches like hell and then the bite will turn hard and weepy :’( 

Flea baths: We just used the ones you can buy at Woolies. 

Flea spray: We used Oakwood Premises Flea Spray, also found that it didn’t stain the outdoor setting! We use it on the boys’ bedding, dog house and carpet as required. 

Bug off Spray: Coco and Rufus Bug off Spray on the boys, is a fave here too, smells nice and repels fleas and flies. 

Sentinel Worming and Flea chews: self explanatory. 

Flea collars: yes I know it’s getting a bit overkill but hey, you wanna make sure they are gone! We only used the flea collars for a month or so. 



You might have noticed that I kept calling them 2-D because it’s REALLY hard to catch them as they jump and slip through your fingertips. If you have nails, use them to kill fleas or flush them down the toilet. After the flea bath, it is advisable to trap your iggies in the bathroom for 10 or so minutes so you can kill the fleas jumping off them. 

I know we went through a lot of steps to eradicate fleas but if you don’t they can hide in that blanket you didn’t wash and then you have the whole life to deal with it. Again. 

The first time we did everything and then second time it wasn’t as serious so I think the boys picked the fleas up during their walks. We remain flea-free with Advantage for the cat and Sentinel for the dogs.

Raw Feeding 

** raw feeding is a personal choice, and following is written by a member who chooses to feed raw **


Raw Feeding

One option in the feeding of your pet dog is that of raw feeding. The one I’m going to talk about here is that of BARF (Bones and Raw Food or Biologically Appropriate Raw Food). 

This type of feeding is goes back to the way canines originally ate, by eating raw food of their prey. This is not to say that your dog is a wolf, but that your dogs digestive system is fundamentally the same as that of a wolf’s. 

So don’t look at your dog as a little beagle trying to bring down a whole deer, more as a beagle sized digestive system eating the appropriate amount from appropriate prey. 

By feeding your dog raw meat, bones, offal and vegetation, you are allowing them to get the correct nutrients they need for their body, in a natural way. 

There are many places you can look for help and direction in starting raw feeding. 

You can find a mentor who’s opinion you value, to help you start 
There are a number of web sites and Facebook pages that can help. I have found Perth (W.A.) Raw Feeding Community to be the most diverse and helpful.


One of the most knowledgeable raw feeding/natural health veterinarians, Dr Claire Middle, lives here in Perth and has written simple and straight forward books about raw feeding. 

Raw feeding can be made as simple or as complicated as you want to. When I started it was quite a complicated regime, but after a number of years of research and learning, I have come to a healthy, nourishing yet simple recipe that my dogs enjoy, this is enough to feed a 6kg dog for about 35 days; 

3kg diced beef and diced goat 

1 pumpkin and 1 sweet potato 

300g liver, kidney, lung, heart 

200g pilchard or sardine 

1 cup parsley 

1 tablespoon dried kelp 

Daily raw bones of either chicken carcass, lamb shoulder or neck, roo tails 

Sadly you may be faced with some people who believe you are doing your dog a disservice by feeding them healthy and natural raw food and not kibble. 

What I feed my dogs is my choice and while I happily recommend raw food to all dogs, I don’t shame anybody who does not do likewise. 

If you do feed your dog a form of kibble always remember to read the list of ingredients carefully and understand what is meant by these ingredients

Dog Showing 

Thank you to club President Denise and her show champions Bronte and Pippin for putting together this article...


The Reason Behind Dog Sports 

As a pure breed club some people may wonder what the point of dog showing is, after all, you already know your dog is pure bred. This is the fundamental reason behind all dog sports, like - confirmation showing, lure coursing, agility, obedience, dock dogs and I’m sure there are more! 

All of these dog sports are a way of demonstrating the skill sets, physical makeup, natural behaviours in a dog.

Confirmation shows are a way to demonstrate the way each breed should look, act and move. Agility shows how a dog with a focussed trainer can perform high speed movements. Obedience demonstrates a deep trust between dog and trainer. 


Why do people take part in these dog sports? Firstly, they are FUN!

The joy I find in attempting to move around the ring with my boy looking up at me is indescribable, working together and trusting each other is a lot of fun! 


Secondly, if a dog wins at a chosen sport, it is being proved that this dog was bred well as it can fulfill the “job” it was originally bred to do. 


The basic theory behind breeding a dog, is to improve the breed. So you want a sheepdog that has a herding instinct, a greyhound with a coursing instinct, a Labrador with a retrieving instinct and all of them moving correctly to carry out their jobs, the best place to look is an ethical breeder who breeds to improve the breed. 

It is rare in a litter of pups for all of them to be perfect. Some would say it’s impossible to find the perfect dog!! So a breeder will carefully watch the litter as it grows and at 6 weeks or so will decide which one they will keep. And hope that they made the right decision! The other pups obviously go to pet homes! They may be a bit small, a bit tall, have the wrong underbite or a myriad of other tiny things that make them not quite right to carry on breeding from. 

So that is the reasoning behind dog shows and other dog sports, and why ethical breeders do what they do!

My Iggy is eating his/her poo! HELP!! 

Thank you to club member John and the amazing Mister for the information...


My puppy is eating poo... 

Good news is often puppies grow out of it. They often go through a phase where they want to get their mouth on anything. Patience is key, and to stay calm with the puppy. 


Don’t: tell them off 

You should never shame a puppy for going to the toilet. If a puppy is made to feel shame when they poo, in the future they will panic after they have pooped and eat it to try and hide it. 

Don’t: let them see you clean up 

Puppies can pick up on what you’re doing, and if they see you pick up and dispose of their poo, they will try and help you out and clean it up themselves. Unfortunately this can include eating the poo. 

Do: give them something better than poo to eat 

Once the puppy has gone to the toilet in the right place, reward them. If they go back to the poo, tell them ‘no’ or ‘leave it’ and once they give you attention, and not the poo, give them a reward. The idea here is there will be treats coming their way if they leave their poo alone. Make sure the treats taste better than their poo! After doing this a few times, lead the puppy away from the poo, and then clean it up discretely so they aren’t tempted to eat it later. 


I am using puppy pee pads...

These can be super fun for a puppy to tear up, so a quick way to stop this happening is to tape it to the floor. Do give your puppy a fun alternative though and give them an old magazine so they can have a good time ripping it up.

What should I dress my Italian Greyhound in? 

Thank you to club member Lena and her trusty sidekicks Kaya and Bug Baars for the following information.... 



“It’s called fashion Brenda, look it up” – Kaya Baars 

For any examples of below items, check out @kaya.and.bug on instagram 


-Pablo and Co; (Brisbane, AU); bandanas, bowties, shirts, jumpers, matching Hawaiian shirts for dogs and humans. Reasonably priced. 

-Fuzzyard (US); jumpers, toys, bedding. Iggies typically fit size 3-4. Expensive but good quality. 

-Herbert and Homer; matching onesie pyjamas for dogs and humans. Reasonably priced. 

-Kmart (AU); t-shirts, jumpers, costumes. Iggies typically fit the S size. Cheap pricing, reasonable quality. 

-Surf Dog Australia (Mandurah, AU); UV protective rash vests, microfiber beach robes. Expensive but good quality and perfect for drying your iggy after a bath or trip to the dog beach. 

-Petflair (Sydney, AU); human clothes and accessories WITH YOUR DOGGO’S PICTURE ON THEM OH MY GOODNESS LOVE. Expensive but seriously cute. 

-Dogs and Hats (UK); knitted beanies and costume hats. Reasonably priced. 

-River and Co (Perth, AU); bandanas, bowties. Reasonably priced and good quality. 

-Petwarmers (AU); smaller business making custom jumpers and onesies. Excellent range of fabrics and styles. Very reasonably priced. 

-DP (Perth, AU); Denise Pringle makes cute jumpers for a donation to IGCWA. Very reasonably priced, good quality. 

-Funky Dog Company (Perth, AU – though may have moved to UK); onesies. Jersey material with soft inner lining. Reasonably priced, completely custom sizing, excellent quality. 

-Oboe and Piccolo (Adelaide, AU); jumpers, halfsies, onesies, harnesses. Custom sizing. Reasonably priced, excellent quality, great range of fabrics and designs. 

-Spoiled Bratzwear; t-shirts, jumpers. Reasonable pricing, good quality. 

-LOKO Pet Apparel (UK); onesies, halfsies, sleeveless vests. Custom sizing available. Reasonable pricing, good quality. 

-eBay; literally anything you want, you can find on eBay. I recommend only buying non-essentials (costumes, funny t-shirts etc) that you do not plan on using more than once or twice as quality tends to be poor. Typically sizing runs small and iggies wear L-XL. Cheap pricing, poor quality.